Towab Treasures


People have to live Somewhere. Home varies from a parent’s basement, a castle in Ireland or a tent outside of town, each with some kind of visible and non visible support network. But networks do much more than hold up walls.
Canada is experiencing a strong network right now. Recent wildfires in Fort Mac and beyond have turned our country into one gigantic village, bound together by a universal desire to care for each other. This need to connect goes much deeper than doubling up for the Red Cross. Signs of a collective soul have always been everywhere. Check out the 2013 lyrics in Eddie Vedder’s compelling raspy baritone in Future Days by Pearl Jam. “You came deep as any ocean, did something out there, here. And I believe ‘cause I can see our future days, days of you and me”.
The intrinsic threads that weave connections wound around the life of American born writer and activist Jane Jacobs. She spread her belief in community via her now famous 1961 book, Death and Life of Great American Cities. In it she challenged the urban planners who wanted to remove people from the heart of the city. Then in 1968, frustrated with what was happening in the United States, she moved New York to Toronto. Jacobs made the Annex, a downtown area of the Big Smoke, her lifetime home and continued her work for positive community development. By the time she passed away in 2006 at the age of 90, she had become a celebrated Canadian - so much so that each year thousands of folks hold an annual “Jane’s Walk”. And this year in the Sault, on May 4, on what would have been her 100th birthday, people took to the sidewalks and explored local downtown neighbourhoods.
I take to the hiking trails for similar reasons. The paths and shoreline of Lake Superior are part of my community. And one of my very favourite spring neighbourhoods is the Towab Trail. This primo Lake Superior Park hike leads from Frater Road five km to Burnt Rock Pool on the Agawa River and another seven km further to the mighty Agawa Falls.
To access the trail you have to drive 3.5 km up the Frater Road, which begins at Highway 17 North at Agawa Bay. (BTW the Frater Road is in pretty good shape this spring. Thanks to whomever has been taking care of it.)
There is a map beside the parking area. It describes the route but the experience is almost indescribable. The trail begins with tree art. Twisting roots of a yellow birch wrap themselves down the sides of a head high boulder, an erratic, a leftover from glacial days. If you get to the trail before leaves and bugs make their mutual entrance, you’ll see a land where time takes a nap. Little wonder! Those mysterious flowers, the spring ephemerals - the trout lilies, spring beauties, blood root, yellow violets, Dutchman’s breeches and trilliums that fill the wide bright green spaces between the leafless hardwood trees - have fluffed up the forest floor. Songs in the clear, clean, shining creek soon become a soothing lullaby. And the precious warmth of a May afternoon is your soft blanket. This is a safe place. Delicate yet enduring connections emerge. The forest canopy protects the flowers from too much undergrowth. The stream provides water, light and sound to birds, moose and people. And ancient trees lie down to make a home for mosses and young trees. This forest village holds all the elements of a thriving community – protection, sustenance, knowledge. By the time you get close to the rushing sound of the Agawa River you are deep in a peaceful green valley of hope.
Other beautiful spring hikes have called me from the park, have made me explore community. We took the trail north of the Agawa River mouth  to discover what once was a small village of people from the 1930’s to the 1960’s. We bushwhacked along the shore to follow the outline of old foundations and crunched over leaf strewn decaying can dumps. We marvelled at the fine shape of a huge rounded tire fender. But nothing speaks of interdependence, of the need for each other as the play of flower and fern by rock and water. They are powerful teachers and holders of truths.
Their gift is community and we have taken it to heart. Be it a quiet stroll through downtown Queen Street, a loud cheer for the Raptors at a sports bar or hot handed applause for an encore at Toronto’s Pearl Jam concert, the joy of sharing is fundamental.
So, thanks Nature for helping us realize that we need each other - and for showing us the way home.







TAWAUB’S TRAIL

A frothing river bed
Became a lush forest floor.
Maple towers
Gazed upon glacier’s boulders.
And then he made a path, a trail, to lead to the beckoning
Burned Rock Pool of the Agawa River.
This valley home for
Moose, bear, bird,
Violet, lily, bloodroot,
Was his domain.
This Hercules of the Northwoods,
This myth of the forest,
This Tawaub
He with the infectious grin and reverent smile,
He who poles a canoe upstream,
He who carries a 50 lb pack on his back and a canoe on his shoulders,
For 4 hours, nonstop, up the hills!
Is our wonder.
Tawaub embraced Batchawana to Agawa
But his name goes around the world.
To walk his trail leads you to the river.
To learn Tawaub’s path
Never look back to see who is following.
Never pause until Rest Time.
Never offer to do any part of another’s work
But always, always help those you can like.
Oh Tawaub,
He-who-walks-by-moonlight
He-who-comes-tomorrow
Do you rest now?
Or do your moccasins still trod the endless trail?

Tawaub was an Ojibway guide who excelled in the ways of the woods. His name graces the 5 km hike from the Frater road to the Agawa River.