April 25 2014..... A Train for Thought


                              


Every time I hear the ACR train whistle I smile. It is an immediate reminder. The wilderness is only a few hours away. But for how much longer is anybody’s guess.

Talk of the ACR passenger service to the lands north of the Sault has heated up coffee stops for several weeks now. And since spring is still under winter’s thumb, there has been a lot of opportunity to share what the loss of access to the ACR corridor will mean. I look upon the ACR as an amazing part of our heritage.
The ACR hauls around a lot of history. The other day I took some time and poured over a 1980 ACR map. I followed the winding curve of the track and counted out 44 stops, each with a unique name. Some of them, like Searchmont, Achigan, Montreal Falls (affectionately known as 92), Canyon and Dubreuilville are still used today. Others, like Horsey and Bucyrus, have fallen away with time.  But every name had an importance. There’s the town of Hearst, named after a former Sault resident, William Howard Hearst. He had studied at Osgoode Hall and became a lawyer in 1888. For some reason, (maybe his compass pointed north too), he ended up practising law in the Sault. It wasn't long before politics was his forte. In 1908 Hearst was an elected member of provincial parliament; in 1911 he became minister of Forestry and Mines.  Then, 100 years ago, in 1914, when Premier James Whitney died, Hearst became the new Premier of Ontario. He was the kind of man who looked out for workers and believed in compensation for injuries. He developed reforestation and fire prevention programs and also provided loans to settlers.


Qualities of light on snow inspired Franz Johnston .


An irreplaceable gift from the ACR is the way it sharpens the artist’s creative edge. Frank Johnston was a painter who came to Algoma in 1918 with the first members of the Group of Seven. He fell in love with the landscapes that he saw on his trips up the ACR. In a 1919 Algoma show,Johnston contributed 60 works, more than any other artist.
The area around Hearst and Franz was deep inspiration for Johnston. Although he moved to Winnipeg in 1921 to become principal of Winnipeg School of Art until 1924, Ontario called him back. Johnston returned and taught in Toronto at the Ontario College of Art from 1927 to 1929. But it was his connection to Algoma and Northern Ontario that had rooted into his soul. So much so, that in 1927 he changed his first name from Frank to Franz, after the town on the ACR line.

Another special locale is Hawk Junction. In 1909, ACR officials established “Hawk” as a crucial stop along the line. A vibrant community sprang up. In 1923, when a fire destroyed the town, residents pulled together and rebuilt everything. The train station there is a step back in time. It would make a marvellous movie set. The impressive, two-story brick structure even could be a candidate for heritage status. Several years ago, I took the train from Hawk up to Hilda to spend a couple of days at Errington’s Wilderness Resort.  I bought my ticket at the original wicket. I sat on the worn, oak bench where a waiting passenger, decades ago, had carved a fancy, handwritten initial H  into the arm beside the seat. Such intimate details add to the overall magic of train life. And no doubt the ACR has been magic for thousands of people.

ACR station at Hawk ... courtesy Panttila family album

Local videographer, John O’Donnell, tells the story of how during a film shoot of the ACR he captured some remarkable footage. His camera was running as the engineer on the passenger train opened his window before approaching a steep grade. As the train slowed climbing the hill, a raven flew alongside his window. When the speed was just right, the engineer handed off some food - he gave the raven half of a sandwich! O’Donnell says that the funny thing was a young raven was flying about twenty feet behind the mother. The engineer thought that the mother was teaching the young one the ropes.



A favourite raven on his favourite perch



Mmmm. Could there be some learning here? Can we teach the next generation what Northern Ontario can mean, to us as well as to the rest of the world? There is spirit and hope in the wild spaces. There, folks can find their true self in their own private way. That is a rare thing in these changing times.






No doubt the future will be a digital one, where most experiences are virtual. But maybe we can help some of the real ones stick around for a little while longer. Like that long, slow whistle as the passenger train pulls away from the station.




The ACR train heads home.



April 3 , 2014

The icebreaker came.In the middle of the night.  And by morning,  ice bound ships from Thunder Bay had left. CCGS Pierre Radisson to the rescue again.

Raining Stars  by artist/photographer Paula Trus who captured this time lapse image in the early hours of  April 3, 2014 at Montreal River Harbour. Lights on the horizon from the stranded ships share the night sky with the stars. 

April 2,2014


                                       Fisheries and Oceans Canada/Canadian Coast Guard
The icebreakers cometh. They grind their way through the frozen lake. They open the path for the others to follow. And they hope that Mother Nature will navigate the way.


Depending on sun, wind and warmth to help out with the melting of the ice on the lake is a good idea. Nature will provide the balance while we seek a myriad of ways to cope with this extreme weather.Distractions work well. Between snowshoeing, shovelling, Season Four of Downton Abbey, the Olympics and the recent Juno awards the days are full. During the televised Junos I laughed at the exchange between Serena Ryder and twins Tegan and Sara. They joked about forming a group called the Frost Biters, in honour of this year’s crazy cold winter.

But extreme winter weather is much more than an annoyance to the sea faring segment of the Canadian population. The shipping industry has to rely on the spring break up. When winter won’t let go without a struggle, then it is time to bring out the big, er maybe bigger, ships. Ice breakers are a tough breed and they are in a huge demand right now. The Canadian Coast Guard has 16 icebreakers to operate in Eastern Canada and the Arctic. There are two heavy duty icebreakers, four medium ones, eight multi-purpose vessels and two hovercraft. In addition, there is one vessel with icebreaker capacity on the Pacific Coast.

There’s a desire now to get on with the Great Lakes shipping season. The U.S. Coast Guard began their annual spring ice breaking in Thunder Bay on March 27 and the St. Lawrence Seaway’s 56th navigation season started March 28. That was a special day for Algoma Central Corporation. The Algoma Equinox, the first of their series of eight, new, energy efficient “Equinox” ships, went through Lock 3 of the Welland Canal.
The new ships are needed. But so is an ice free lake. So I checked with the Canadian Coast Guard to see what icebreakers MIGHT be coming our way to help out. Right now the Samuel Risley is cracking up eastern Lake Erie and the Griffon is chewing up ice on the St Lawrence River.
The diesel- powered CCGS Samuel Risley, built in BC in 1984 is about 70 m long and almost 14 m wide with a draft of just over 5 m. This ship has a cruising speed of 12 knots and hosts nine officers and 13 crew members. In 1858, Risley (pronounced is), became the first Chairman of the Board of Steamship Inspection. He was a pioneer in ship safety regulation.


CCGS Samuel Risley   Fisheries and Oceans Canada/Canadian Coast Guard



CCGS Griffon  Fisheries and Oceans Canada/Canadian Coast Guard

Another older icebreaker, the Griffon, was built in Quebec in 1970. About the same size and speed as the Risley, the Griffon has nine officers and 16 crew members. You can watch the Griffon on Utube to see, hear and almost feel the crunch of breaking ice.
This vessel is named after Le Griffon, a much, much older ship, which sailed the Great Lakes in 1679. On her maiden voyage, the ship sailed the then uncharted waters of Lake Erie, Lake Huron and Lake Michigan. But it vanished on the return trip, with no remains ever to be found.




CCGS Pierre Radisson  Fisheries and Oceans Canada/Canadian Coast Guard

 A third ice breaker, a bigger, middle brother to the Risley and the Griffon is the Pierre Radisson. Built in BC in 1978, the ninety-eight m long Radisson has a strong and powerful diesel-electric motor. She can plow her way through ice a meter thick at a speed of 6 knots. Named after Pierre Radisson, the French fur trader who explored Canada’s north in the mid 1600s, the Radisson makes the Arctic its usual ice breaking theatre. However, this year it has journeyed our way to loosen Lake Superior’s deep heavy ice and thick drifting snow.



Some say the Great Lakes ice is the worst it’s been for decades, while others say it’s the best. But, there is no doubt that the presence of such a huge ice pack has had a huge effect. Some of that can be most positive. The quietness, freedom and clear air of so much open space pull on one’s personal magnet. The peace and calm, the muted colours and the blinding bright light radiate a sense of well being.  Good medicine for the tired soul.
But the satellite view of Lake Superior shows that the lake cover is changing. Cracks in the ice resemble old paint peeling off the wall. This heralds the end of our icy season. Our sidewalks are going to sink into the lake. Slush will claim our walkways. The ice paths will be a memory. That broad, bright, white expanse, which has lit up the lake for a couple of months, will dim to grey before becoming a brilliant blue. Some will cling to their digital pix of long walks on all that hard water and others will cheer the return of Lake Superior’s open water.
There’s a unique music to this ice demise. Tinkling shards and crashing chunks, the last sighs from a long hard winter, succumb to the demands of the sun. We applaud such orchestrations. We will add them to our play list, turning up the volume as the iceman leaves the shore. But, somehow, I think that there might be a few who would rather be singing Serena Ryder’s song, Baby Come Back.