Oh.. For the land


Trees waiting to run


Hey Easter Bunny! Don’t fret. We know how to search for chocolate eggs under the snow. So please keep ‘em coming.
Mind you, I still long for warmer Easter days, the kind where you can see and feel green ground poking out from the snow. On those days, in the city, you can take a bicycle out for a spin on sandy pavement watching out for a puddle or two instead of dodging ice chunks. In the bush you can sit beside an outdoor fire and feel the warm sun on your face while a pot of sap boils itself into sweet, sweet syrup. For those who crave the water it is all about sliding canoe or kayak over snow into the open lake to silently slip through silky smooth water. For those who ply Lake Superior in the freighters or tugs, it is that glorious feeling as you leave the St Mary’s River and head up the lake for another year.




Ice walkers three

Will this sun set?

However, we are not in control of any season, nor can we predict anymore what is about to happen when. Take our sugar bush stats for example. In 2004, just because we could, we made some syrup on Feb 29.  In 2010 there was a warm spring and our first boil was on March 10th. The next year, 2011, things had cooled off quite a bit and we had our first boil on April 2. Then came that crazy 2012. Our first boil was March 15th     and the snow was all gone by March 18th! That’s the year we were worried about lighting an outdoor fire because the bush was so dry. In 2013 the season seemed rather normal and we made our first batch of syrup on March 28th   .
The following winter? KAPOW! We got hit by 2014’s polar vortex. Our first boil was April 7th. And this year, this 2015? As you all know, we got another upper cut to the chin, another whack from the freezies. Oh well. Changes are everywhere.
The environmental changes sometimes affect how we relate to the world, especially if there is a deep desire to experience nature. When some folks can’t get that needed nourishment, drastic things happen to their souls. For centuries this strong sense of abandonment and deprivation has been the subject of poetry, music and other art forms. A new film, a documentary called Lament for the Land blends voices of Labrador Inuit with stunning scenery and illustrates such loss. Researcher Dr. Ashlee Cunsolo Willox interviewed people from five communities in Nunatsiavut, Labrador. That part of Canada is under the influence of a warming trend and the ice is melting along the North Labrador coast. The lack of dependable ice is creating environmental, emotional and cultural impacts on the lives of everyone there. They are unable to get to their traditional hunting and fishing cabins because the sea ice is so unpredictable. Depressed about not being able to get out on the land, the people are experiencing strong emotional reactions – grief, mourning, anger, frustration and sadness. In a 2014 CBC Quirks and Quarks interview with Bob MacDonald, Cunsolo Willox said, “People describe themselves as land people, as people of the snow and the ice and would say that going out on the land and hunting and trapping and fishing is as much a part of their life as breathing.”

Wind ripped snow










That kind of breath is almost sacred. Sometimes you can get a whiff of it when you are walking out on the ice. The sky is a brilliant blue, the ice is humming under your feet and the day is at peace. On a windless day, when the sun is shining and you are out on the frozen lake it is as a friend said, “There’s nothing like it in the whole world. Why would you want anything else?”
Anyone who has experienced the simplicity of nature in such a way can understand the need to seek the bush, to connect with the land. I feel sorry for those who are waiting for word about the ACR passenger train. That traditional means of getting to the bush is in jeopardy. If the train ceases to run for them, ceases to take them into the wonderful wild, what will they do? Depression, frustration, anger? Or as one of the voices in the Lament for the Land film stated, “Guess we are going to have to find another way.”
Ah, ‘tis the nature of life, finding another way. Hey, I’ll bet the Easter Bunny can help. There’s got to be lots of goodies in that basket.



Ice walkers



Feel like heading south? Sick of the cold? Can’t stand the stinging wind one more day? Who knew that we would have to endure ANOTHER polar vortex!

Some folks refuse to be undone and devise a multitude of ways to brave the elements. Like frying fish in a tent at a campsite in Lake Superior Park when it’s -19 (check out lakesuperiorpark.com to see the hot tent video). Others rebel and stay inside to cook up steaming pots of soup. How to survive it all? Well, humour helps. I laughed when I heard last week about a jesting Facebook post from the Nova Scotia RCMP. The faithful horsemen said that Old Man Winter was on their wanted list for causing “numerous highway closures, excessive shovelling and visits to the chiropractor.” I imagine that one could add disrupting water mains and blinding snow storms to the charges. Plus, there must have been complaints about his homegrown recruits, Willie Windchill and Frieda Frostbite. The Mounties warned folks to not approach Old Man Winter because he was “armed with ice pellets” and to protect themselves with sand, a snow blower or salt!

ice tree
But you’d need an infinitesimal amount of salt to eradicate Old Man Winter’s effect on the lake. For, as of this week, ice smothers 90 to 100 percent of Lake Superior. We can see ice on the lake straight to the horizon and beyond. That vast expanse of white is such a compelling surface.
 About a week ago we decided that it was safe enough to hike said ice sheet. Housed in snowpants and woolen layers of insulation under my biggest warmest coat, I ventured down to the icy lake with scarf over my mouth and two pairs of socks in my boots. I walked like the Michelin man. (To get to the lake we have to navigate over drifts and around ice cliffs.) Frieda and Willie terrorized my bare fingers as I released my hands from cosy mitts just long enough to buckle the straps on my snowshoes. 


michelin woman



When we reached the shore of lake Superior, we stood there for a minute, listening to the thundering voice of the ice. The scene was magnificent. The walk was amazing. The sight was pure artistry. Snow resembled mounds of whipped cream. Where the ice was clear, lines and cracks converged to create a beautiful geometry. 



What is all this frozen stuff anyway?  Painters and musicians and poets often offer their insights. Scientists have their interpretations too. They say that pure ice is white with a blue tinge. Well the turquoise hidden in the ice caves affirmed that point. Science also says that ice is a mineral, or at least it has the 5 properties of a mineral. The first two properties are easy to understand. Ice must occur on its own, not be manmade. And no other organism must be able to produce it either. The rink makers, who embrace the frigid nights with hose in hand, know too well that their creations only result from just the right combo of water and temperature. Next, to be a mineral, ice must be a solid. Uhhh..I sure hope so. A lot of ice trekkers and snow machinists are counting on that one. The last two properties deal with chemistry - a finite number of chemical compositions and an ordered atomic structure. Hexagonal crystals put ice straight into the mineral category. Science sure has a hoot analysing this ever mysterious, ever changing substance. Check this out. Under the Antarctic ice field lays the Russian-named Lake Vostok. Researchers claim that the lake has a surface area of about 14,000 sq km and is 670 m deep. (Lake Superior is approx 82,100 sq km and 406 m deep). The Antarctic scientists add other interesting tidbits. They say that 3 km of ice has hidden Lake Vostok from the sun for about 15 million years. Other discoveries include DNA from single celled organisms encased in the ice. Scientists call them extremophiles. Yeesh. I think that some of us feel like we are turning into one of those.



snow cornice
But take heart. Right now Old Man Winter is using the last of his energy to make his getaway. (The Mounties will have to nab their man next year.) The fearless frost maker is heading to the shores of Lake Vostok on a March Break ice diving holiday. After that, he reports back to work in Brazil, Australia and other places south of 0 (aka t
Locked in to the island


But take heart. Right now Old Man Winter is using the last of his energy to make his getaway. (The Mounties will have to nab their man next year.) The fearless frost maker is heading to the shores of Lake Vostok on a March Break ice diving holiday. After that, he reports back to work in Brazil, Australia and other places south of 0 (aka the equator). By then, spring will be making her presence felt here. You will find her sleeping in a sunny window, standing by a south facing wall or luxuriating from a warm windless day on the ice. Ahh. Such is our life. For, indeed, as the slogan goes, “We the North.”